Friday, January 14, 2011

Foraging for Food

Commodity procurement (what grocery shopping should be shown as on a resume) has become as complex as the labels on some processed foods. It is the modern take on hunting and gathering.

I start innocently enough, scanning cookbooks for new recipes I want to try out. A simple croissant bread pudding for two, a twist on onion soup by Thomas Keller in Bouchon,  lamb steaks with rosemary and port and roasted  gnocchi . Then I add in requests from the peanut gallery, my spouse. His gourmand cravings will range from fountain hot dogs to steak. The latter always gives me pause. What bits exactly am I biting into? Even the skinless butcher franks made of organic grass fed beef still are going to have bits in them.  I have seen footage of just what bits, and uhm, I'll just have the fries please.  I digress, back to the menu. Throw in a couple of old go to meals like corned beef (from a Sunset recipe 1994) with roasted rainbow carrots, check for seasonality, budgetary constraints, and I'm set.

I list each day's lunches to be packed for my husband, dinner and sides, and desserts every so often (if I am in the sweet tooth mood or buttering him up for something like a new IPad). From there each ingredient is listed unless found in the pantry or freezer. Now I break down the ingredients by store. It would just be too easy if I could pop into one store and be done, but no.  I hit the big box store (Costco) for my paper goods and cleaning products, a pharmacy type store for sundries, a pet food store for the cats and bird needs, a produce store for well, you guessed it, produce, and the rest finally at the market with the meats and butcher I prefer. All of this has to be planned geographically to save on fossil fuels, and planned for refrigeration needs as I only make one trip. No stops at home in the middle. My motto is: If it isn't on the list then you don't need it! All of this organized shopping came in handy when I worked loads of hours. Now I am an at home wife  so theoretically I could hit a store every day, but old habits die hard.

I will go to great lengths to not run to the store. I ran out of olive oil last week, a crisis in my kitchen. Even then I just wouldn't go until shopping day. Rather, I used it as an opportunity to become better acquainted with grape seed oil. The grape seed oil is more neutral in flavoring, can take higher temperatures without burning and, well, was on hand.

Lest we forget, their are rules for food procurement. The biggest rule is don't forget to bring your own bags! Recently, I ran out of my reusable bags before hitting the grocery store. The check out clerk asked if I had bags (loudly if you ask me), the the bagger asked twice more, quite incredulous at the thought that I may need a paper bag or two of theirs. Customers behind me in line seemed to silently voice their disproval at my lack of green thinking. I wanted to announce that my car was loaded up with bags already filled to the brim with organic, unpackaged stuff, but I just hung my head and whispered paper please.

Another guideline is to avoid amateur hours. When you grocery shop with me, you are shopping with the big boys! The after work shoppers dally reading labels, leave carts in the middle of the aisle, and are too chatty. The after school shoppers have little mini consumers in training pushing miniature shopping carts and clogging up the aisles while moms put back all the goodies their offspring have thrown on the floor or in their carts.

Right now I have the luxury of going on a week day early enough to avoid both. During the holidays I was forced to shop on a WEEKEND and thought I would burst a blood vessel. The lines, the screaming children, the lack of choices from everything being picked over, all took a year or two off my life expectancy. I was in line to check out during the holiday week, balancing on my cast, when a woman behind me asked if she could go ahead as she was on a tight schedule. Don't get me wrong, if the person behind me has only a couple of items and I have a full cart, I always offer to let them go ahead. Just common curtesy. This women had way more than me, was half my age, NOT WEARING A CAST, and quite pushy about it. When I pointed these things out she said the entire rest of the line had let her jump ahead so what was my problem. I did let her go just to have the opportunity to publicly use my sarcastic wit aloud. Just saying there are easier times to shop.

I know it is the oldest shopping rule in the book, but it is true, never shop hungry. I have emptied grocery bags at home dazed by the items I purchased for no reason other than they looked so yummy. Marshmallow mix kit, lemon curd, almond flour, spices that I have never heard of therefor must be tried, just bits I didn't need but at the time I couldn't live without. Then they sit in the pantry until well after the expiration date as a reminder to not repeat history so I suppose they weren't a complete waste.

All of my planning, research, scheduling are for not if I fail to remember the most important rule of shopping. Bring the list. Now as soon I remember where my glasses are, I'll be able to read that list. After I remember where I parked to get the list from the car.....This could take awhile.

Sunday, January 9, 2011

All Trussed Up With Nowhere To Go

"Noncooks think it's silly to invest two hours' work in two minutes' enjoyment; but if cooking is evanescent, so is the ballet."
Julia Child

"Cooking is like love, it should be entered into with abandon or not at all"
Harriet van Horne

Julia Child was deadly serious about her roast chicken. Thomas Keller, one of the top chefs of our time, writes that a simple roast chicken is his favorite meal. Cooking shows featuring the world's most successful chefs repeatedly state that one's ability to roast a chicken is a measure of a cook. If that is the case, then I am measured monthly. 

There is nothing quite like the aroma of a roasting bird wafting from the kitchen on a cold, wintery, late afternoon. Ok, the smell of cake in the oven, particularly chocolate cake, or red velvet, could top it but it also tops my thighs. A healthy meal that is at once simple and sublime. A Sunday supper that is a feast for the senses.

Chicken has been depicted in Babylonian carvings as a meal as far back as 600 BC. Thousands of years of cooks can't be all wrong. A simple Google search of roast chicken recipes brings up over 2 million entries. 2 million? There really cannot be that many ways to dress a whole bird tastefully! Big box stores, such as Costco,  have turned roast chickens into big dollars. I admit, it is tempting to buy an entire 5 pound chicken already roasted for only $5.99. My raw chicken at only 3 pounds cost twice that much. Of course, mine is organic and I have have the pleasure of smelling it cook...And it simply tastes better.

It wasn't alway so easy. When I began cooking a whole bird was to be avoided at all costs. The thought of putting my hand inside Mr. Chicken was enough to give me goosebumps. In the beginning I would arm myself in rubber gloves that could protect one from nuclear waste. Trying not to gag as I preformed a proctologist's exam on my bird, I pulled out bits that were last seen during the movie Alien. I tried using tongs to remove the parts but in a traumatic moment my tongs slipped and body parts rained down on me. Nothing like a bit of gizzard hanging from your glasses to put you off chicken for a while.

Now roast chicken is a break in the cooking schedule. A real break, of course, would be suddenly being whisked out of my house and into a lovely restaurant for a leisurely meal. As my spouse has only one day off this week, and let's fess up, it is football playoff Sunday, so the only whisking around here will have to be in my own kitchen. Regularly a roast chicken makes it's way to the Sunday menu. Variations used to be experimented with, but I am hooked on Nigella Lawson's Brandy Bacony Chicken. She passes on the trussing. And after all, it is just the two of us, so why dress Mr. Chicken up? I know it cooks a bit more evenly but not evenly enough for me to bother with. And it includes bacon! Just a hint of flavoring to change things up a bit. The ten minutes of actual work give me plenty of time to work on other projects or to relax.

It is time to get out my bird prep kit. So I never got over the innards thing, so what? Armed with goggles, gloves, better tongs, and a sharp knife I am ready for whatever this bird has in him.



Saturday, January 8, 2011

WHEN LIFE THROWS YOU LEMONS...DUCK!



They say if life hands you lemons, make lemonade. A lovely message and a good and lofty goal for a cheery outlook on life.  However, sometimes life hands you hundreds of lemons, and all at once.


I am not speaking of calamities in my private life, but of actual lemons. This week brought unusual freezing temperatures to my area necessitating a quick harvest and a culinary project. Sure I could freeze lemon juice, again. I can make yet another Lemon Poppy Seed Cake (and although the Food & Wine recipe is a favorite, that would make 3 in 3 weeks), but I want to use them en mass.  Almost every dinner this week has utilized a lemon or two but at this rate I'll be souring on the project in no time.


Last year I preserved lemons in salt with dried chilies. I had read they were used often in Moroccan recipes. The rather large jar was quite picturesque in my refrigerator for months, much like a 3D still life every time I opened the fridge door. Unfortunately, I never got around to cooking any Moroccan food and they went the way of most failed projects, the bin.


A quick scan of various websites yielded such fun ideas as making hair highlighter. My hair colorist would fall over laughing while charging me extra to fix my color back to the brunette of my youth. Next were an array of cleaning solutions for making copper gleam and all rooms of the house lemony fresh. While it would use quite a few lemons, it seemed to involve housework. Who wants two big projects at once? A kitchen full of lemons rotting while using salt and half a lemon to shine up those pots? Not this year (or any). I have the advantage of age. I can simply take off my bifocals and the house looks ever so much cleaner.  Homemade air freshener recipes were a bit scary. Potpourri on steroids. Plus my house already smells of whatever I last cooked. It's a daily random air freshener without having to spend a penny.


Along with freezing the lemon juice for later use, I am making Gremolata, a chopped herb condiment typically made with lemon zest, garlic, and flat leaf parsley. I am adding softened butter to form small logs for individual freezing. It can be added to steamed vegetables like asparagus, used to flavor fish or poultry dishes,  and just looks so good in my freezer. I am off with a zest for my new project.


I have included links to the recipes written of, and can vouch for the lemon poppy seed cake. It has become a traditional Christmas treat in this house. 


Now stop staring at my lemons and remember, 


1. When life throws you lemons... Duck
2. When life throws you lemons.... Ask for chocolate
3. When life throws you lemons... Grab the Tequila
4. When life throws you lemons... Throw them back
5. When life throws you lemons... Open a lemonade stand and make some money
6. When life throws you lemons... Ask for some recipes
7. When life throws you lemons... Make a centerpiece with your fruit bowl
8. When life throws you lemons... Well hey, keep them, they're free
9. When life throws you lemons... Suck out the vitamin C
10. When life throws you lemons... Make π



Friday, January 7, 2011

Culinary Overdose



If New Year's Day sets the tone for the entire year, I will not be able to squeeze through doorways by December 31st.

I was off from work this holiday season which enabled me to indulge in any and all holiday whims. Baking twenty dozen biscotti isn't unusual for the holidays, making eighteen pounds of  Emeril's spiced candied nuts might be considered over the top, but not this year. I was able to entertain, bake until my oven dials were starting to melt off, decorate every room of the house, and get together with friends throughout the season rather than just once or twice for the month. Needless to say, I got into the zone, the cooking zone.

I didn't think twice about planning my week's complete menu entirely from new cookbooks. Doesn't everybody? Analyzing each recipe for it's fit to my pantry, it's seasonality, local availability, and just because I liked the picture in one case. The last of the holiday season's goodies were down to mere crumbs and I wanted to start the year trying a few treats. Somehow that plan spun out of control and I have made cooking dinner and dessert into a competitive sport.

New Year's Day should be special. For my husband it means round the clock football, for me a celebratory day that is both relaxing and an indulgence. Sort of icing on the cake of Christmas. The house is back to normal, every last bit of Christmas packed away. What better time to try a beef rib recipe that cooks for seven hours? After all, I was home all day.

Jamie Oliver's new cookbook is comprised of his American food exploration. It starts in New York and so did my cooking week. We waddled our way through Daisy May's BBQ Beef Ribs, over to Chinatown for Fiery Dan Dan Noodles, and stopped off in Little Italy for Veal Parmigiana. I felt a small stab of betrayal when I switched to the Ad Hoc cookbook for Thomas Keller's cobbler. It sounded innocent enough to step over to another book for a change in the week, but I blindly ended up making Blueberry Granola Bars with some guidance from Nigella's Kitchen. It was as if I was on binge cooking high. The year isn't a week old and I have had a life crisis brought on from inhaling dish soap vapors.... I've run out of olive oil.

For most people that just means a quick trip to the local supermarket. I've become a wee bit spoiled. Usually I have a liter of cooking olive oil, a bottle or two of particularly flavorful olive oil for dressing my food with, as well as all the other staples like walnut or chili oil. The generic supermarket brand is bland and greasy to me. Lawsuits have been flying regarding the labeling and marketing of oils as extra virgin or first press lately to weed out these cheap imitations. I favor a market ten miles down the road that actually has a tasting counter to pick out your oils. It isn't me that is spoiled but rather my husband.

So this running out of olive oil, was it a subconscious effort to stop the madness? It did force me to finish dinner substituting oils from the 70's for my usual liquid gold. Just as in knitting or quilting, the talent lays in one's ability to to take a pattern and make it your own. We feasted on a Rocky Mountain Oyster interpretation that allows the calves keep their testicles and uses a flavorful meatball in a rich chili sauce instead. Serving it with broccoli pasta in brown butter was tasty and fresh. Sometimes we have to run out of something to try something new.

As my husband says, how can I miss you if you never leave?

Favorite Cookbooks for This Week

  • Nigella Express
  • Nigella's Kitchen
  • Jamie's America

What pantry staple could you not do without?